Jiu Valley is home to several small limestone sport climbing crags. The Taia river area and Uricani both have climbs that are enjoyable and easy to access. Most routes are one pitch in length and require a set of quickdraws. Routes range in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.13 (Yosemite Decimal System.) Many of the bolts and pitons are old and should be inspected before climbing. Longer routes, some up to 6 pitches in length, can be found in Retezat National Park. Approaches for these climbs are at least 2 hours. In Small Retezat, more bolted climbs can be found a short distance from the road. There is potential for new route development as well.
The easiest option for sport climbing in Jiu Valley area is the Taia River Cliffs, located east of the town of Petrila. Take Route 66 north 2-3 km from Petrosani, follow the signs to Petrila, continue on the same street, Strada Repbulica, until it curves around to the right, take a left on the road that follows the Taia River. Continue for approximately 2 km until you reach the cliffs. Free camping also available.
An option for non-sport climbing is in Campusel, approximately 40 km west of Petrosani. Follow Route 66 until the pavement ends. Go left and cross river instead of going to Cheile Butii. Follow the dirt road for approximately 5 km. Limestone cliffs will appear on the right.
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Rock Climbing
